When do people in Madrid sleep?

I love the feeling of the shared courtyards that appear to be ubiquitous in Spanish housing.  Right now I’m listening to someone wash pots and pans, I can hear my neighbor’s radio broadcasting today’s news, I can smell what somebody else is preparing for lunch.  And, all these sensations come from the nameless multitude of people living across the way, above, and below and on the side of us.  But, all this communal-ness has also made me wonder… when do Madrileños sleep?


Cilantro – a gastrobar in Chamberí

Cilantro Gastrobar  – Calle General Álvarez de Castro 7 (+34 914 45 55 53)

We stumbled upon this on our way to Plaza Olavides last night and decided to try it out for dinner.  And, what a fortuitous decision!
While waiting for a table, we started at the bar with a delicious Tempranillo/Cabernet wine from Navarra.  Once seated, we ordered an array food – totopos de oaxaca en nachos, ensalada de tomates raf, aceite de albahaca y queso de Parma, a few pinchos, and ‘the’ hamberguesa.  Everything was delicious – flavorful, fresh (the mozzarella di bufala was incredible), and interesting (the basil-infused olive oil added a pesto-like seasoning to the tomatoes). Alongside we tried a white Rioja that was the perfect compliment.  We ended with the cheesecake hailing direct from Nueva York. It was delicious.